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SilverFast is for scanning and processing photos, documents, and slides. Optional: 1)Multi-Exposure, 2)ICC Printer Calibration, 3)PhotoProof, 4)ColorServer SilverFast SE / SE Plus / Ai / Ai Studio (scanner software) The products can be classified in four different categoriesВ : Scanner Software

The EDP (European Digital Press Association) awarded LaserSoft Imaging's SilverFast as the 'Best colour management software of the year 2008' for improving the dynamic range of most scanners and for creating ICC profiles automatically. Some scanner manufacturers bundle their hardware with SilverFast.

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It is the only software supporting the Heidelberg high-end Scanner on Mac OS X and Microsoft Windows 2000, XP, Vista. The latest version 6.6 is available since May, 2008. Version 2.0 was presented at the CeBIT at 1996 and version 3.0 was finished in December 1996. SilverFast was introduced at the Hannover CeBIT fair in 1995.

2.5 SilverFast PrintTao (printer software).

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2.4 SilverFast Archive Suite / Archive Suite SE (archiving solution with color management system).2.3.1 HDRi (64Bit RAW data with infrared channel).2.3 SilverFast HDR / HDR IT8 / HDR Studio (image processing software).

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2.2 SilverFast DC SE / DC Pro / DC Pro Studio (digital camera software).

2.1 SilverFast SE / SE Plus / Ai / Ai Studio (scanner software).

Roughly, Super HG is early 90s, Super G is 1995-2000, Superia is 2000+. Also there may have been evolution during the lifetime of a name. Super HG, Super G, Superia are generations of Fuji consumer film and are probably relatively similar within a speed. I didn't go back far enough to find any Super G or Reala. There are other numbers like CH10, CH-7, but I suspect those are batch numbers. I looked at some of my Fuji color film from the early 2000s and it's labeled 'S-400' and 'S-800' on the edges, which are surely Superia 400 and 800. To attempt to answer some of the questions: I don't think we need to treat scanning as an unprintable word it is already often discussed in the film forums. It may be that just starting with a consumer film of the same speed is the best approach. For ex, 'consumer' and 'professional' color film often have differences. Sure it's better if you customize color profiles, but it helps to start with something that might be close. and I may yet run into Fuji slide film in my collection, I bet that's going to be just as fun to figure out.

(There are others: NHG, NPS, SHR- but none of these names ring any bells in my head as film I would have purchased 25 years ago)Дoes anyone know when these films were introduced and discontinued? Knowing these dates might also help me identify the film stock based on when I was shooting.

Google gave me nothing on all of this.Дў) Because I'm using Vuescan, the types of Fuji film I could potentially use (in the apps 'Color' settings) are fairly limited. For example, the negs I was trying to identify yesterday said only: Fuji, 100, 966B, and the film leader had '5D3HM2' on it. Here are my questions that I'm hoping you can help me with:ДЎ) Most broadly: how do you identify Fuji film with only negatives and no original canister? Unlike Kodak, there's very little roman alphabet identification on some Fuji negatives. I learned a bit about DX identification (and basically ran into dead ends), incomplete and confusing accounts of what types of Fuji film stocks were available and when. I've scoured all over the place online with little success. I am having a really hard time identifying Fuji 35mm color negative film stock. until I ran into my 1990's Fuji negatives.

#FILM NEGATIVE IT8 TARGET PROFILES HOW TO#

I've been educating myself these past couple months on a variety of topics, especially on how to effectively use Vuescan. I am new to the game of digitizing 35mm film.

Film negative it8 target profiles